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Mary's avatar

That restaurant (Venhue) was irredeemably bad. *SPOILERS AHEAD* Almost every stage of the experience felt like a gimmick or a joke that the diners are not in on (for example, all of the ragging on the Michelin star system and "fine dining" as a concept). The spoon used to serve the first course in a rubber tire-inspired bowl (see: Michelin obsession) is so flat as to be not functional; and it feels hostile to serve a dish with delicate roe that can't even be retrieved with the spoon it's served with. It's so scolding, off-putting, and distancing throughout that when we are brought into the kitchen to have a more intimate, human interaction with the chef later on, I found myself totally off-balance and unable to adjust to being treated warmly and with curiosity after the pounding and ironic sensory assaults of the first few courses. The bad AI animation blaring from all sides of the dining room just set my teeth on edge immediately, and the food wasn't good enough to soften the experience of being jostled from course to course with obnoxious pounding lights, sound, video and music assaulting all the senses. The amount of plastic waste created by the disposable toothbrushes and other crap is not justified in any way. The food feels like an afterthought to the obnoxious show that misses the mark. The final pasta dish arrived partly cold when it was supposed to be warm (it seemed like it may have been microwaved?!), the sauce was gritty, and the (so-called) truffle shavings were big, floppy and flavorless. It was an utter fail for me. To answer their question at the end of the meal, yes, I'd rather spend double at 11 Madison Park (which Venhue reveals a chip on its shoulder by jabbing at for costing so much) where they know what the fuck they're doing and aren't making trash for their own amusement.

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Nicholas Fortugno's avatar

Thanks so much for sharing this, Mary. I actually already have my reservation, so I guess I'm committed. I appreciate your take though. Seeing trash is part of my academic job, I think, but I'm always happy to have my expectations correctly set before going.

Are there other restaurants you've been to that you would consider immersive experiences? I think it's a very fuzzy line with meals given the performativity of dining generally and especially of high-end tasting menus, so I try to err on only really dramatic experiences as immersive in restaurants. The only other ones I would say I've done are Blue Hill at Stone Barns and a VR dining experience (not great) that I need to find the name of. Do you have others?

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Mary's avatar

Thanks for reading my cranky review & I hope you have a better time there. I haven't done much immersive dining but love a farm to table restaurant. The best one I've ever been to is in Viñales, Cuba, called Finca Agroecologica El Paraiso. If you're ever there, let me know!

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